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FAQs:
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What
gauge / size of tubing do I need?
First
it's important to understand how steel numbering
works. The industry uses what are called "schedules"
and "gauges" to represent the thickness
of the tubing "wall". With Schedules,
lower numbers are lighter, and higher are thicker,
i.e. Schedule 40 is very heavy-duty (nearly 1/4"
thick). With Gauges it is the opposite - i.e.
a 9-Gauge tube is thicker than 13-gauge.
The
most important factors to consider are:
- Are
you in a very windy area?
- How
heavy is your net?
- Do
you want the frame to last virtually forever,
and prefer a high-performing system?
Wind-Speeds
Key:
*Please
note these are only general recommendations, are
not scientific numbers, and not guarantees. Please
use your own discretion when determining the proper
frame size for your area.
If
you have a net which is very heavy, such as a
Varnish or Latex Dipped #42 or #60 gauge, you
will want to consider using a miniumum of 12-Gauge
2-3/8". Keep in mind that the heavier
the net, the more tension you will need to put
on your cable lines to minimize net sag. The heavier
your frame is, the more you can maximize your
tension without bending the poles.
For
example, on the 1-7/8" frame it is recommended
to tilt the outside sections outward a few degrees,
to allow for the tension in the cable lines to
be increased, and compensate for the natural bend
in the poles. If you would rather not worry about
tilting your poles just right, we recommend the
2-3/8" frames.
How
many frame sections will I need for my net? (use
our quick key)
To
maintain the best performance from your net with
minimal sag, the standard is to use one frame
rib for about every 15' of net -- so for a 35'
long cage you will need 3 ribs, for a 55' cage,
4 ribs, and a 70' cage will need 5 ribs.
However,
it is also possible to limit the number of frame
sections by increasing the thickness of the steel
tubing, which will allow for your cable lines
to be tighter - minimizing sag. Indoor cable
applications only have 2 anchor points - on each
opposite wall, spanning upwards of 100'.
If you aren't able to install middle frame sections,
or prefer to minimize the total number of holes
in your ground, we recommend the Schedule-40
2-3/8" 2 or 3-section kit. This will
allow cables to be anchored to each end, suspending
your net like a shower curtain for support.
*Overall
net size, thread thickness & material can
all greatly impact the most appropriate number
of sections needed to maintain optimal performance.
i.e. a 35'L cage with #21 twine size will require
less stability than a 55'L or 70' net using #36,
#42 or #60 thread.
How
tall & wide are the frame sections?
Each
frame section/rib is 15'W x 13'4"'H, which
accommodates the most common net size (14'W x
12'H). Our frame poles can be adjusted in length
if needed -- contact us
for details.
How
deep do I need to dig my holes?
This can depend on your ground-freeze level, but
our standard kit is designed for the poles to
be inserted 24" into the ground (please also
see NOTE below). This leaves 11'4" of frame
above ground (allowing 8" of net sag on the
ground when used with a 12'H net), and also allows
for 12" of extra room on the width (when
using a 14'W net), which compensates for ball
ricochet. Each rib also includes 2 PVC piping
sleeves for inserting into ground.
You
may also add or remove steel snap hook links as
needed to adjust your height.
Please
note that it's recommended to allow "net
sag" on the ground to contain balls and create
slack, which reduces tension and extends the net
life-span.
NOTE
FOR CABLE KIT USERS:
When
using a cable kit with your frame, you will insert
your center upright poles 18" down, which
will leave your center cross-members 6" higher
than your cable lines. This will allow the lines
to pass under the poles, and enable you to affix
the cables to the collars on the center cross-members
for support points -- this will also expand your
height in the center, creating a "tent effect".
You may also link multiple snap-hooks together
to keep the cable lines 6" below the center
cross-members, if ricochet is an issue.
Will
I experience "ball ricochet"?
Our
frame cross-tubes are 15' long, which allows for
6" of room on each side when used with a
14'W net, and 18" on each side with a 12'W
net. This is typically enough room, but nets may
stretch upwards of 36" when hit by the ball
- it just depends on the net thickness, velocity,
& trajectory. If your space is tight &
you are concerned about ball ricochet, we can
increase the width of the frame poles, or supply
you with foam padding. Contact
Us for details. You could also install additional
vinyl impact screens (on the inside or outside
of your net) in the area of the poles, to baffle
the impact. (Typically only the 2nd rib-section
needs to be baffled, because the other sections
are far enough away).
What
if my net is shorter, taller, or not as wide as
these frames?
- If
your net is shorter than 12', you can simply
insert the frame legs an extra couple feet,
or use longer drop-chains to accommodate.
- If
your net is taller than 12', you can simply
allow the extra net to hang on the ground, which
is recommended to reduce tension and reduce
ball roll-out.
- If
your net is less than 14' wide, no problem -
the net is hung on the inside of the frame sections,
so you will only need to extend the tie-offs
from the frame to the net, to compensate. This
also reduces the opportunity for balls ricocheting
off the frame & hitting the batter or pitcher.
- If
your net is wider than 14', you can also make
this work, but you may need to "baffle"
the upright poles with pads or vinyl screens,
to prevent ball ricochet.
*We
can also extend the length of the poles as needed
to accommodate just about any size net.
*Diagram
& Installation
Guides
Contact
us for more info or to purchase
these frames today.
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